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Skinner 

Ten Day's Tour 
through the Isle of Anglesea 




THE LIBRARY 
OF 

THE UNIVERSITY 

OF CALIFORNIA 

LOS ANGELES 



^rrhaealffjia Camlrreitsijj 



TEN DAYS' TOUR 



THROUGH 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



DECEMBER, 1802 



BY 



REV. JOHN SKINNER 



RECTOR OF CAMERTON, SOMERSETSHIRE 



^ 



'omios vuayfflfliRtfvyD] 



^ 




SUPPLEMENT, JULY, 1908. 



LONDON : 
iUufilistP^ foe tije iffamfirian ^rriiafologiral ^ssoriation t)} 

CHARLES J. CLARK, 65, CHANCERY LANE, W.C. 



3lri*fntea[o0tH CambreiiJjijj 



TEN DAYS' TOUR 



THROUGH 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



DECEMBER, 1802 



BY 



REV. JOHN SKINNER 



RECTOR OF CAMERTON, SOMERSETSHIRE 



^ 



(pynmufft vu ovmrnRif vyp] 



^ 




SUPPLEMENT, JULY, 1908. 



LONDON : 
^Jutilisfjrt for tljf aramlulnn :ard)afo(ooirnl .Hssoriatlon iiji,) 

CHARLES J. CLARK, 65, CHANCERY LANE, W.C. 



DA 



740 

INTRODUCTION 



AsS 



The Rev. John Skinner's Ten Days' Tour Through 
Aiiglesey, which is given in the following pages, has 
been carefully transcribed from the manuscript in the 
British Museum, the punctuation, spelling, and use of 
capitals followed strictly throughout. Some notes have 
been kindly furnished by Mr. E. Neil Baynes, F.S.A., 
and he has also copied (in black and white) most 
of the water-colour illustrations which are included 
in the manuscript. The illustrations are reduced from 
the original size, but with this exception and the 
absence of colour they have been copied as closely as 
possible, with all errors of perspective, etc. Some of 
the drawings would appear to have been done by 
Mr. Skinner in the evening from memory, and not 
on the spot. The complete list is printed herewith, 
and the pages where the plates appear in the original. 
A copy of an extract from Mr. Skinner's will is 
subjoined, in which he expresses his particular wish 
that the chests containino- his numerous notebooks 
should not be opened until the expiration of fifty years 
from the day of his death. 



Extracted from the Principal Registry of the Probate Divorce 

and Admiralty Division of the High Court of Justice 

In the Prerogative Court of Canterbury. 

In the will of the Reverend John Skinner 
late Rector of Camerton in the county of 
Somerset deceased dated 1st February 1839 
is as follows : — 

No. 2. I give and bequeath to the trustees of the British 
Museum all my Journals and other Manuscripts transcribed 
by my late brother Russell from No. 1 to No. 110 both 

A 2 



4 INTRODUCTION 

inclusive and interleaved with original drawings together 
with the Journals I have made in my own hand-writing since 
my brother's death from the year one thousand eight hundred 
and thirty three to the year one thousand eight hundred and 
thirty-eight in volume 1 to volume 36 of an Octavo size with 
blue Morocco backs containing altogether in number one 
hundred and forty six which I desire may be safely conveyed 
to the trustees of the British Museum with the five Iron Chests 
in which they are now contained and I request my said 
executor the Reverend John Hammond to see to the per- 
formance of this bequest in the manner aforesaid and it is my 
particular wish and request that neither of the Iron Chests 
with the contents aforesaid shall be opened till after the 
expiration of fifty years from the day of my death but 
provided the trustees of the British Museum should raise any 
objection thereto it is my will that my before mentioned 
request should not be insisted upon. 

Proved (with two Codicils) 

14th November 1839 

Fos 4 

J JC 

716 Vauohan 

N.B. — It is not to be inferred that the 
foregoing extract contains the only 
portion of the said Will referring to 
the matters therein mentioned. 



» 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

1. Plas Goch ... ... ... ... 23 

2. Blochty Enclosures ... ... ... 25 

3. Bryn Gwyn. Stone by Cottage ... ... 27 

4. Ground Plans, Oaer Leb, etc. ... ... 28 

6, 7. Bodowyr Cromlech (2) ... ... 30,31 

8, 9, 10, 11. Carnedd at Plas Newydd (4) 34, 37 

12. Cromlech at Plas Newydd ... ... ... 39 

Cromlech and Stables (omitted). 

5. Ground Plan, Bryn Gwydryn, etc. ... ... 42 

Coins of Edward VI and Elizabeth (omitted). 

Bryn Celli, Plan and Finds ... ... ... 44 

Llanidan Church ... ... ... ... 49 

16. Stone (Fitzgerald) in Llanidan Church ... 50 

17. Maen Llwyd Cromlech ... ... ... 52 

18. Frondeg Stone ... ... ... ... 53 

19. Llangadwaladr Church ... ... ... 55 

20. Llangadwaladr Doorway, showing Stone ... 56 
Inscription to Rich. "Williams (omitted as it is in 

the text). 

21. Llangadwaladr Church Inscribed Stone ... 57 
2 2. Henblas Cromlech ... ... ... ... 60 

23. Cerrigceinwen Church ... ... ... 63 

24, 25. Cerrigceinwen Church Clochti (2)... 64, 55 
26, 27, 28. Cerrigceinwen Church Font (2) 66, 68 
29. AberfFraw Church Arch. ... ... ... 70 

Llangwy fan Church (omitted) ... ... 71 

31. Llangwyfan Church, Interior ... ... 72 

32. Llangwyfan House . . ... ... 74 

33. Cromlech at Mynydd y Cnwc ... ... 75 

A half-hnislied sketch of Trecastel Bay (omitted), 

34. Llanfaelog Cromlech (2) ... ... 78,79 

36. Crighyll Cromlech... ... .. ... 81 

37, 39. Presaddfedd Cromlech (3) ... 84,86 
Proposed Menai Bridge (omitted). 

41. Llantrisant Stone. 

Pabo Stone (omitted, vide Arch. Camb., January, 

1908)... ... ... ... ... 93 

Doorway at Llanbabo (omitted, vide Arch. Camb., 

January, 1908) ... ... ... ... 94 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



45. Llanfechell Stones ... 
Llanfecliell Church and Font 

46. Llaneilian Church ... 
Parys Mine (omitted). 

48. Three Stones (near Amlwch) 

49. Llanol Stone 
Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain and 

Lleidr 
Coin of Diocletian (omitted). 
View of Bodafon Mountain from N.W. 
View of Bodafon Mountain from S.E. 
Stones in Penrhos lligwy Churchyard 
Lligwy Cromlech ... 
Lligwy Cromlech, Caer Lligwy 
56. Llanallgo Cromlech and Font {vide note) 
Stones at Marianglas (omitted). 

58. Llaniestyn Stone ... 

59. Llaniestyn Font ... 
GO, 61. Cromlech at Trefor (2) 



50 



5L 
52. 
53. 
54. 

55. 



Carreg 



134, 



PAGE 

96 
97 
99 

106 
112 

115 

116 
119 
121 
123 
124 
125 

130 
132 
135 



Altar Tomb in Penmynydd Church, sketched 
from memory (omitted). 



No. 99. The stepped gable over the gateway should, I think, be over 
the porch, and the pointed gable shown over the porch should 
be over the gateway, but I am not certain. 

No. 115. The font described as in Penrhoslligwy Church is really 
the old font of Llanallgo. It was covered with plaster and set 
on a rough mass of masonry. When the Church was restored, 
about fifteen years ago, the plaster was cut away and the font 
was redressed. 



N.B.— The be«^inning of a page in the original is marked 
by the introduction in the text of folio and number between 
brackets, thus (fol. 22). 



Additional MSS. 33,G36 

This book was transcribed from my Journal by my 
brother Russell Skinner (who was the com- 
panion of my Tour) Anno Dom : 1804 



SKETCHES IN ANGLESEA 

TAKEN IN DECEMBER 1802 

BY 

REV? JOHN SKINNER 

1802 ' 
62 



1740 



I give this Vol. of my Anglesea Tour with my 
other Journals, to the British Museum to be 
retained by them according to the directions 
I have left in my will respecting the disposal 
of my MSS. 



(fol. 22) 

TEN DAYS' TOUR TH. THE 
ISLE OF ANGLESEA 

Anno 1802 



Thursday, December 2 



We left Capel Cerig early this morning on horseback 
with the design of examining the Celtic remains in 
the Isle of Anglesea the Harper of the inn accom- 
panying us in the capacity of interpreter. After a 
ride of fifteen miles along the vale of Nantftrancon by 
Lord Penrhyn's quarries we came to Moel-don ferry 
about eleven o'clock when returning our horses by a 
boy (fol. 22a) (previously sent forward for the purpose 
from Capel Cerig) we proceeded as pedestrians. Our 
passage across the Menai savoured somewhat of 
quixottism for the ferry boat being on the other side 
waiting for passengers we were unable to brook the 
delay so taking possession of a fisherman's skiff lying 
on the beach we row^ed to the Island pursuing nearly 
the same track as the Romans seventeen hundred 
years ago under the command of Paulinus Suetonius 
which event is so particularly described by Tacitus. 

On our landing we immediately made the necessary 
enquiries at a public house for the route we were to 
pursue and found the places we had noted down lay so 
wide asunder it would be impossible to comprehend 
them in the course of the day. We accordingly deter- 
mined on making that our sleeping place and after a 
slight meal (fol. 24) took the road across the fields to 
Llanidan. In our way passed an ancient mansion called 



JO TEN days' tour THROUGH 

Pias Goch apparently built in the time of Elizabeth 
A little way bevond the house is a natural barrier ol 
rock rising abruptly above the level ground and ex- 
tending almost the whole way to Porthamel the distance 
of half a mile. Near this place in a meadow the 
Romans are supposed to have formed their ranks 
immediately on landing and the field to this day 
retains the name of Pant y scraffie, or the place 
of the passage boats. At low tides the channel 



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No. 1. Plas Goch, December 2. 

is not above three or four feet deep so that it might 
easily have been crossed by the cavalry in the manner 
described by the Historian and the natural barrier 
before mentioned being so contiguous, it is not at all 
improbable that it was the first post occupied by the 
Romans under Paulinus Suetonius on their invasion 
of the island 1740 years ago. " Igitur Monam insu- 
1am, incolis validam et receptaculum perfugarum ad- 
gredi parat, navesque fabricatur piano alveo adversus 
breve litus (flat bottomed boats to pass over the 
shallows) et incertum — sic pedes — (the infantry thus 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



11 



passed over) equites vado secuti aut altiores inter 
undas adnantes equis tramisere." The cavalry followed 
the infantry, and by fording and swimming over the 
deeper channels arrived at the opposite side. Tac. 
Ann. lib. 14, c. 29. A few minutes' walk brought us to 
Llanidan church, which seems superior to (fol. 24a) 
the generality of Welsh buildings of the kind having 
a double roof and two bells in the clochti or belfry. 
A large irregular built mansion^ belonging to Mr. 



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No. 2. 



Williams who has acquired such immense property in 
the Pary's Mines stands close to it. From Llanidan 
we took the road to Bryn Shenkin half a mile be- 
yond. It is where Mr. Roland supposes the Britons 
formerly had a town but now every trace is lost. 
Having procured a lad well acquainted with the neigh- 
bourhood to conduct us by the nearest route we quickly 
proceeded to Blochti half a mile further to the north- 
west.^ At this place on a steep bank or rather ridge 

1 Llanidan House belonged to Lord Boston, from whom Mr. 



Williams rented it, 



- South-west. 



12 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



of rock (a quarry being now worked beneath) we 
traced the foundations of four or five circular buildings 
in a line close to each other each measuring nearly 
seven yards in diameter. The same gentleman Mr, 
Rowland describes these as the remains (fol. 26) of 
British habitations and his opinion seems to be con- 
firmed by some others of a similar form lying in a 
meadow called Tan-ben-y-cefn not two hundred yards 
from the spot. These latter are surrounded by two 



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^y^'hr- 



_. r; .»-■>»<— '_*.---^«»' ^-t-_j_, 

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No. 3. Druidical Stone staudiug near a Cottage called Bryn Gwyn. 

quadrangular earthworks the larger fifty yards by 
forty containing four of these circular foundations the 
smaller (forty yards by thirty) only two. It is not 
improbal)le that some of the Roman soldiers might 
have occupied this spot after driving the inhabitants 
from their possessions and that the earth works were 
tlirown up by them by way of security. 

Crossing a barren marshy heath we saw the banks 
of a circular work probably formed for the same 
l)urpose as that we before noticed at Caerleon and I 
presume was a gymnasium or place of exercise (the 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



13 



country people indeed have an idea it was a fortifica- 
tion as our g'uide informed us it still goes by the name 
of the Castle.^ Whatever it was it does not appear to 
have been at all connected with the Druidical worship 
(fol. 26«) as Mr. Rowland supposes). The mound 
encompassing the area may be from ten to fifteen 
feet in height the diameter of the circle sixty yards. 
This measurement I believe is nearly accurate but part 
of the circle having been destroyed in order to form a 



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No. 4. 



cart road makes it more difficult to determine with 
certainty. On enquiring for some ancient stones 
noticed by Mr. Roland at a place called Bryn Gwyn 
we were directed to one standing near a cottage a 
quarter of a mile to the north-west^ of the circus It 
was of a lozenofe form measurino- above three yards in 
height and two in width. We observed none of equal 
dimensions near at hand but in a field at the back of 
the cottaofe there were six each about a yard high 
placed three and three at equal distances so as to form 

1 Castell near Bryn Gwyn. ^ West. 



14 



TEN days' tour THROUGH 



two exact triangles. From hence we proceeded along 
hio-her ground to a farm house called (fol. 29) Tref 
brw (Druids town) where some of that venerable 
order are said to have resided. Now the name alone 
records the circumstance to posterity as there is 
nothino- remaining which can be attributed to so remote 
a period. But not far distant we were directed to a 
quadrangular earth work thrown up on marshy ground 
near the brook (or as it is termed by the inhabitants 




No. 6. Side View of Bodowyr Cromlech. 



the river Briant)\ The outer mound^ measures fifty 
yards by forty and is about five feet in height 
the trench 12 feet wide. Near the centre of the 
enclosure we noticed the foundation of another of the 
circular huts above mentioned and in an angle to the 
south east appearances of walls and buildings. 
The course of the river must have altered consider- 
al)ly in aftertimcs otherwise the Romans would 
hardly liave chosen so damp a spot even for a tem- 
porary encampment. Still continuing in a northerly 



1 Braint. 



- Caer Lab. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 15 

direction and leaping over the river Briant we regained 
the higher ground near (fol. 29a) Bodower^ house 
which is at present occupied by a farmer who rents the 
property of Lord Boston. Here we were gratified by 
the sight of a very perfect chromlech standing in a 
field to the N.W.^ of the house. The upper stone 
terminates in a ridge like the roof of a building and 
measures seven feet four inches long three feet deep 
and four wide : this is sustained by three supporters 



-r 



r 



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)) 



i. 



■■fi*. 




x-^y 



-•%^ . tri^ ■ 






No. 7. End View of Bodowyr Cromlech. 

each three feet in height & nearly the same in 
thickness. That cromlechs were not always used (if 
they were at all) as altars for sacrifice I think may be 
demonstrated by the one before us (as its Pyramidical 
form is by no means adapted to the purpose. Indeed 
there is a tradition amongst the Welsh that this rude 
memorial was erected over the grave of a British 
princess named Bronwen who flourished in the year of 
the world 3105 ! ! ! !). My sketches being finished we 

^ Bodowyr. - Half a mile south-west. 



16 TEX days' tour THROUOtH 



hastened on hoping to reach Mafyrian^ a mile and a 
half further before the evening closed in but owing to 
a mistake of the guide's we lost our way and wandered 
about until it grew quite dark. Our disappointment 
however was in some respect alleviated (fol. 32) by 
the intelligence we received of some Roman coins 
in possession of a person at Tre Evan"-^ a cottage we 
were to pass on our return. The moon having by this 
time risen above the horizon we had a pleasant walk 
to Tre Evan and entering: the door made known the 
purport of our visit to the good lady of the house who 
readily acknowledged she once had a great many bits of 
brass money but thinking them of no value had given 
them her children to play with. On our anxious 
request through our interpreter for a more exact 
scruitiny in this important concern she began rumag- 
ing a little cupboard and at length produced a coun- 
terfeit shilling of William the third which she said was 
all that she retained of any money. This was a 
mortifying termination to our suspence as we were in 
hope a few (fol. 32a) might have escaped the general 
dispertion. On enquiring how the brass coins came 
into her possession she informed us that about six 
years ago whilst a labourer was building a wall round 
a field near her house he took materials for the purpose 
from the foundations of some circular buildings (similar 
to those at Blochti) in one of which he discovered a 
millstone containing in the cavity at the centre about 
two quarts of brass coins. He also dug up a smaller 
millstone which she still retained in her cottage. On 
producing it I found it of a close texture and tho' 
only ten inches in diameter weighing twenty-six pounds. 
This probably belonged to a hand mill as it seems to 
resemble those I noticed in my excursion along the 
Roman wall. By the way the circumstance of finding 
these coins hid in the foundation of a circular building 
sufficiently proves that the Romans occupied the 

1 Myfyrian. 2 Tre If an. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 17 

premises after the Britons had quitted them. We 
returned at seven o'clock to Moel-don and supped in 
company with a young clergyman just aj^pointed to 
the curacy of the parish. He proved an agreeable 
companion and gave us some interesting (fol. 33) in- 
formation regarding the new regulations at Oxford. 
On retiring to our sleeping apartments we found them 
altogether the most homely I ever occupied. However 
as we had made up our minds not to quarrel with 
trivial difficulties we resigned ourselves to our lot 
without murmuring and sleep soon veiled all in ob- 
livion. 

Friday, Decr. 3 

We were up early this morning but it rained so fast 
we could not leave the house till ten. I employed the 
interval in copying a map of the Island on a large 
scale which is to be filled up as we proceed. Accom- 
panied by our new acquaintance we first visited Llane- 
dwyn^ church where he officiates for the first time 
next Sunday. The church yard and a great part of 
the parish has lately been enclosed by Lord Uxbridge's 
park walls and we were not a little surprized to find a 
(fol. 33a) porter's lodge and a locked gate on the 
church road. 

In the church yard is a flat stone with a Latin 
inscription to Rowlands the antiquarian who held 
this living with Llanidan for many years. We found 
by the date that he died in one thousand seven 
hundred and twenty-seven. 

What is very extraordinary for the author of such a 
book as Mona Antiqua we were told he was never 
above once out of the Island in his life. 

Llanedwyn church is said by this gentleman to have 
been originally founded by Ed wen neice or daughter to 
king Edwin anno domini six hundred and four though 
none of the present building we presume can boast of 

1 Llanedwen. 



1 8 TEN days' tour THROUGH 

that antiquity it being formed after the present model 
of Welsh churches. Yet it retains its bason for holy 
water, its modern crosses, and a curious inscription cut 
on the back of one of the pews, the letters running in 
a circle with i. h. s. in the centre. I believe the inscrip- 
tion is Welsh : the character (fol. 38) apparently that 
made use of in the time of Henry the seventh. From 
hence we pursued our walk across the park towards 
Lord Uxbridge's house stopping in the way to examine 
a very large Carnedd^ or artificial hillock formed of 













jrJ /^>»-j-^-i^,^>;>^l 



No. 8. Carnedd in Lord Uxbridge's Park, North Side. 

loose stones but now overgrown with turf and trees. 
This remain is one of the most considerable in the 
island measuring one hundred and thirty-four paces in 
circumference. On walkinof round it we observed a 
square opening on the south side which I entered on 
my hands and knees and found it about ten feet 
long, four wide and three high, the sides formed 
of three large flat stones placed edgeways in the 
ground supporting the roof which consists of only 
two. I have endeavoured to be as exact as I could 
in my drawings of this cistfaen (which without 

1 Carnedd at Plas Newydd. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



19 



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No. 9. South Side and Entrance of the Cainedd. 







3^c^- t.-j 4/-^^ ^-^5 ^^"^-'-^ 



No. 10. Ground Phm of the Ci.sfaen within the Carnedd. 



doubt it was) and employed as the grave of 
some considerable personage (folio 38a) in ancient 

B 2 



20 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



times though Mr. Rowlands appropriates the carnedd 
to a very different use and connects it with the religion 
of the Druids. In his time three skeletons were dis- 
covered in dio'trinof near the surface of the carnedd 
which gave him an idea of its being a place of sacri- 
fice but he had never an opportunity of viewing the 
interior (the opening having been discovered within 
these few years) he was unable to speak with certainty 
on the subject. This was certainly the mode of 
sepulture among the Britons, and northern invaders 




.^. 



'/■ 



^■-.^rv..,. 



-*Sit!iS 







'Ik ■\:-Ll^.^::J' '■ 









//i r^^-t^ C^^t/" u^/AtfH^ r»-«y 



No. 11. Interior of the Cisfaen, the Right-haud Side on Entering. 



before the introduction of Christianity, and many of 
the open parts of England especially Wiltshire & 
Dorsetshire abound in them, there they are denome- 
nated barrows, in Derbyshire & the northern coun- 
ties they are called lows. The term carnedd implies 
a heap of stones. 

From hence we proceeded to look at a very large 
cromlech^ or Druidical altar preserved in the Park 
near his lordship's stables. In our way there we 
passed in front of the house a vast pile of building 

1 Cromlech at Plas Newydd. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 21 

designed by Wyatt and recently fitted up with every 
elegance of modern refinement but as the family 
(fol. 41) were at home we could not visit the in- 
teriour. However I made a drawing- of the crom- 
lech which is nearly four yards long and above a yard 
thick, the supporters at the north end nearly five feet 
high a smaller stone lying close to the other extremity 
measuring three feet long and two and a half thick 
has also its small supporters and is to all appearance 
intended as a separate cromlech. A large tree spread- 




No. 12. Cromlech in Lord Uxbridge's Park. 

ing its branches over the moss grown stone and the 
venerable wood sheltering the park are still very 
impressive and give some idea of the enthusiasm these 
objects were capable of inspiring when connected with 
superstition. The stables, not far distant from the 
spot are built in a style of gothic architecture resem- 
bling an extensive monaster}^, the pampered and lazy 
steeds within their stalls may be considered as no 
inapt emblem of the former (fol. 41a) inhabitants of 
such kind of edifices. From hence we walked to a 
modern villa situated in another part of the grounds 



22 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



called Fort Cassar built by Colonel Peacock about 
20 years since, but on Lord Uxbridge's purchasing 
the Colonel's estate it was enclosed within that 
park, as is also a more ancient mansion called Plas 
Llanedwyn besides many farm houses and cottages. 
The park wall has not long since been erected, it is 
built of stone ten feet high and extends nearly four 
miles in length. 



ituf. -»ty?- 'is-f--f /..jA. 






^^ ' ^-r.fmJ-'^^'^'^^'^-^^-^:^-^^ 



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•3 






No. 



Returning to Llanedwyn church we proceeded in 
company with Mr. Hughes of Plas Goch towards Bryn 
Gwiderin. In our way thither he engaged a young 
man well acquainted with the country to conduct us to 
those places we had marked out in our list for the day. 
Bryn Gwiderin^ is a natural ledge of rock resembling 
what we before noticed at Plas Goch running for 
upwards of two miles towards Bryn Shenkin'" the 
(fol. 43) Beaumaris road being formed on the summit. 



1 Gwydryn. 



Brynsiencyn. 



THE LSLE OF ANGLESEA 23 

The Romans are supposed to have fixed upon this spot 
as their principal station in the Island though the 
shape of the fortress^ differs from their usual form 
being a semicircle ninety yards across defended by 
a triple trench to the southward and to the north by 
the natural barrier above mentioned. I was anxious 
to see whether the walls had been constructed with 
cement as in the more finished works of the Romans 
but could gain no information on the subject having 
nothing with us to clear away the rubbish from the 
surface. On asking the guide whether they had ever 
discovered any copper coins, he said oh yes he had 
some in his possession and off he ran like a dart to his 
cottage nearly half a mile distant. We waited his 
return hoping at length our wishes would be gratified 
in this respect when lo ! instead of coins bearing the 
effigies of the Csesars he produced a handful of 
(fol. 43«) rough copper ore, on explaining to him 
what we wanted saj'ing they resembled a piece of 
money he said he had one of that kind also of silver 
which he picked up a short time since in a field near 
home whither he returned with equal alacrity to 
procure it and shortly made his appearance with a 
shilling of Elizabeth's ! ! ! So much for coins. There 
seems to be a fatality against my collecting any. In 
my excursion along the Roman Wall I heard of many 
l)ut could obtain none. Those I procured at Caerwent 
are unfortunately lost many have certainly been dug 
up in these parts but either lost or disposed of. We 
continued our progress from Bryn Gwyderin in a 
northerly direction towards Mafyrian the distance 
of two miles over heaths & bogs. At this place we 
expected to meet with some Druidical remains noticed 
by Mr. Rowlands but they have all been cleared 
(fol. 45) away since his time. At Bodlew we expe- 
rienced a similar disappointment. We therefore pro- 
ceeded towards Llanddeiniol church in expectation of 

^ Castell Idris, 



24 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 









fv>n\. Of. ttic 



7lo4. 



hxA^ftuKUi^ iriTLt, cry IUa inv^cu. ctof^ <-'4«4_ 
(^ K<A-r^ erf- OLj Si/t'yutur gk*jvi^(f /cte. ^ 
(X Cat- PIAjCOOK Wilo (n,rvy.tJ_ ttU. 




Biyu Celli Ddu Cromlech. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 25 

seeing some painted glass said to have been presented 
by the notorious Judge Jeffries whose f'amil} formerly 
resided here but nothing of the kind w as to be seen or 
indeed anything else for never was I in so dark or 
dismal a place. But in this parish we were fully 
recompensed for all our former disappointments by the 
sight of the Carnedd at Bryn Colli. 

Accompanied by a young farmer who procured a 
lanthorn for the purpose we Avalked nearly a mile to 
the south east of the church to the spot where in Mr. 
Rowlands' time there were two carnedds remaining 
having two rude stone pillars placed between them 
but these stones have been employed for the purpose 
of building a wall near this place as well as a great 
part (fol. 45«) of the western carnedd which is nearly 
destroyed for the same purpose about twenty 3-ears 
ago when the labourers when digging towards the 
center discovered a flat pan about ten inches over- 
turned bottom upwards and under it a wedge of gold 
as they pretend the size of the heater of an iron with a 
piece of wire passing through the smaller end of it. 
The father of the young man who was with us 
happened to be one of the workmen employed at the 
time, but as what they found was immediately taken 
by Colonel Peacock the proprietor of the ground the 
man could give no further account of the circumstance. 
I should imagine that what they called the wedge of 
gold was no other than one of the brazen celts or 
sacrificial instruments used in formei- times which have 
been discovered in great numbers in Cornwall and 
(fol. 46) other parts of the kingdom. Whilst a farmer 
was removing some of the stones from the north east 
side of the larger carnedd to employ them in his repairs 
he came to the mouth of a passage covered with 
a square stone similar to that at Plas Newydd, anxi- 
ous to reap the fruits of his discovery he procui'ed a 
light and crept forward on his hands and knees along 
the dreary vault, when lo ! in a chamber at the further 
end a figure in white seemed to forbid his approach. 



26 TEN days' tour through 

The poor man had scarcely power sufficient to crawl 
backwards out of this den of spirits as he imagined 
however in the course of a few days instigated by the 
hopes of riches and the presence of many assistants he 
made his second entre into the cavern and finding the 
white gentleman did not offer to stir he boldly went 
(fol. 4()a) forward and discovered the object of his 
apprehensions was no other than a stone pillar about 
six feet in height standing in the centre of the chamber. 
His former consternation could now only be exceeded 
by his eagerness to see what was contained beneath 
the stone which he shortly overturned but treasure 
there was none, some large human bones lying near 
the pillar sufficiently testifying the purpose for which 
the structure was intended. This is the substance of 
the account we received from the young man ^vhose 
father was one of Colonel Peacock's labourers and on 
the premises at the time of the discovery. The super- 
stition of the common people still suppose this to be 
the habitation of spirits. 

Our two conductors seeming rather to compliment 
each other about precedence I took the lanthorn and 
crawling for about twelve feet along (fol. 47) a narrow 
passage got into a more capacious chamber, my com- 
panions followed close at my heels and we assembled 
to the number of six in this singular sepulchre. The 
passage by which we entered is about three feet high 
and a little more in breadth and was formed like that 
we noticed at Plas Newydd with flat stones stuck 
endways and covered with others of still greater mag- 
nitude laid across. I have still my doubts that if the 
former was further explored it might terminate in a 
similar vault to what we are now speaking of. The 
height of the chamber is nine feet, its form nearly 
triangular some of the sides being about three yards 
lonof and four or five feet high. The intermediate 
space up to the roof is filled with stones placed one 
above the other in the manner they build walls but 
without any kind of cement. Two prodigious flat 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 27" 

stones covered the whole one about three yards in 
length and two in breadth (fol. 47rt) the other not 
quite so large. These are of a gritty substance not 
like any stone found in the vicinity. The pillar still 
lying in the cavern is a kind of freestone and seems to 
have been rounded by tlie tool. On examining more 
minutely this singular structure we were not a little 
annoyed by a tribe of immense spiders who have 
reigned here unmolested for ages the cones con- 
taining their young ones suspended from different 
parts of the roof nearly as large as those of silk 
worms. 

I suppose we were in this mansion of the dead half 
an hour and on regaining the open air found the 
evening shut in, and the gloom still heightened by a 
heavy rain which accompanied us the whole way to 
Moel-don where we arrived very wet to a late dinner 
and went early to bed. 



(Fol. 48) Saturday, Deck. 4 

We were up as soon as it was light this morning 
and having taken leave of our new acquaintance who 
seems destined to vegetate on sixty pounds per annum 
with the charge of three churches and a wife into the 
bargain, we proceeded along the shore of the Menai to 
Llanidan. In our way observed more particularly 
Pant y scraffie the meadow where the Romans are 
supposed to have effected their landing, Mr. Rowland 
with some probability derives y scraffie from the I^atin 
word scaphae a kind of flat boats or skiffs best adapted 
for a shallow coast. We stopped a few minutes at 
Llanidan to look at the inside of the church. Mr. 
Williams senior, who died last week at Bath is expected 
to be interred here. Like Sir Benjamin Haniet and 
Mr. Allen though sprung from a mean origin he 
(fol. 48a) acquired a princely fortune having been first 
agent and then afterwards partner in that lucrative 



2g 



tEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



concern the Parys mine. I took a drawing of Llanidan 
church and afterwards copied an inscription in the 
church yard bearing date 1640 the character differs 
from most others of the same period. The interior of 
the building has httle to attract notice but Kussell 
copied the following inscription to a Mr. Fitz Gerald 
who appears to have been resident at the old mansion 
at Bodowyr in the beginning of the last century. 
Some arms of a prior date let into the wall near the 
communion table are I believe the same as those placed 
over the entrance door of the house. " Here lyeth 
Price Fitz Gerald of Bodowir Gent son of Edmund 

















Llauirlan Church. 

Fitz Gerald Gen- and Mary Price who died April xii 
MDCCix being lineally descended from Gerard Oge of 
Rathrown who was (fol. 51) descended from Mac 
Thomas a younger son of the Earl of Kildare in 
Ireland aet xxxiv. iv. m 8 r i p." The lad who had 
been our conductor yesterday still accompanied us and 
I confess I was not a little pleased with his disinter- 
ested attention. We took nearly the same route we 
had done before from Bryn Shenkin to Blochti in 
order to see a cromlech^ called Maen Llhwyd, not 
having been able to procure any intelligence respecting 
it when here the other day. 



1 Perthi Duon ? 



THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA 



29 



The cap stone and its three supporters remain still 
on the spot but have long since been thrown prostrate 
on the ground. If I remember rio-ht Mr. Rowlands 
speaks of it as a demolished cromlech in his time. The 
cap stone is nearly circular measuring about two yards 












: »^^ i'U^ Ht.~.,^3^.^ SA- 















•y 







No. 16. In8ciij)tiou.s at Llaiiidan. 



and a half in diameter and a yard in thickness. The 
two supporters lying near it are about two yards each 
in length, the third we could not take the dimensions 
of (fol. 51a) because the cap stone had fallen over it. 

From Maen Llhwjd we took the direction to 
Bodowyr which gave us an opportunity of seeing Tre 
Fwry the field in which the Roman coins were dug up. 



30 TEN days' tour THROUGH 

Four or five circular buildings may here be traced 
close to the brook Briant. 

I believe that most of the stones that form the wall 
round the field were taken from this spot. Having 
taken a rough sketch of the place we proceeded on to 
Bodowyr. In a stubble field rather to the westward 
of the house we noticed some foundations of buildings 
covering about an acre of ground. The country people 
have a tradition that a large town once stood here but 



t 



/3£o cJCti^ 




'''Vi^'^"X- v^TZt?-w^'"»T->- ^^ 




/ Itf^f^t^ -dtcme^ -hcA-r^ C^c^a-^ a-^ 2 j-^-^/i- ^ ^a.,,,^ ^ita^C^ <i. y'* f^"^ 



?>l, St^f><!>^Td ^^°-^-^ S.-ygJ'^fv,^ 

No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty. 

SO many of the stones have been removed to clear 
the ground it is impossible to form any idea respect- 
ing it. 

Proceeding across the fields for three^ miles to the 
north west we came to a farm house called Fron Dtag^ 
where we had been directed to enquire for a stone 
(fol. 54) with an inscription now employed as a gatepost 
on the premises. We soon found the spot and we en- 
deavoured to trace the rude characters with as much 

^ A mile and a quarter south-west. 
^ Frondeg. 



THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA 



31 



care as possible, I imagine the stone was intended for 
a boundary and that the vi and the letters under- 
neath refer to some measurement of property. The 
other part I think is more intelligible and thus read 
Mad. Filius Lluricini erexit hunc lapidem. 




No. IS. Stoue near Frondug, 5 ft. in lieight. 

The farmer living on the spot gave a curious account 
of the stone having once been taken away to be 
employed in building a limekiln by a person in the 
neighbourhood but he added with great earnestness 
that nothing succeeded with him till he had again 
restored it to its place. It now forms a gate post 
though the gate is hung on the opposite side of the 



32 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



way. We here separated from the good natured lad 
who had attended us so many miles and finding him 
superior to any pecuniary recompence I gave (fol, 54a) 
him a silk handkerchief from my neck which he says 
he shall keep as long as he lives. Before he left us he 
made interest at a farm house for horses to carry us 
over Malltreath^ a swampy flat covered by the sea at 
high tides. However we passed without difficulty 
pushing straight forwards towards a village church 




iSfi 






/ ^'% 



'^'.fllli^^ 






^-iH^ I, • 






r 



\ \ 






No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church. 

called Treasdreath^ and passed a large stone called 
Maen hir. From hence leaving Mr, Meyrick's house a 
large mansion to the left we made the best of our way 
to Llancadwaladr church about two miles distant. We 
had noted down this place from Mr. Rowlands on 
account of an ancient inscription placed there by Cad- 
walader last king of the Britons to commemorate 
Catamanus or Catwallon his grandfather. The charac- 
ters are very deeply cut on a stone above four feet 
long forming the lintern to the doorway of the church 



1 Malltraeth. 



2 Trefdraeth. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 33 

and is read Catamanus Rex sapientissimus opinatis- 
simus omnium (fol. 58) regum. This Cadfan or Cata- 
manus accordino- to Mr. Rowlands was chosen Kino- of 
the Britons anno six hundred and thirteen and is said to 
have been buried in the Isle of Bardsey but in Sir John 
Wynne's pedigree we find an account of a Cadwallader of 
a much later date he being brother of Owen Gwynnedd 
stiled king of Wales. Whether this was the person 
who founded the church or whether it was built as 
Mr. Rowlands says prior to that period the Welsh 



'I 



Nwuroi^iNXXi " 

ypOHiNty/itiK 



.'^1 




^^^ /l ^^..^i^A 



No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr 

Church. 



historians must determine. I only hint this because 
I found nothing in the structure of the building to 
corroborate so remote an antiquity as the chief window 
to the east appears to be about the time of Henry the 
seventh or eighth and on it is some painted glass in 
the characters of that age (fol, 58a). A chapel at- 
tached to the north side of the church was built anno 
sixteen hundred sixty six by dame Owen as we learnt 
by the following inscription over the doorway. This 
chapel was built by Anne Owen widdowe, daughter 



34 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



and inheretrix of Richard Williams of Llasdiilas^ Esq'' 
according to the direction of her deare husband Hugh 
Owen Esq"""^ sixteen hundred sixty one. Under some 
arms painted on the glass of the chapel was, appointed 
by her deare husband Hugh Owen sonne and heir of 



U HI 







' *^ f^f t„^ 



.■■77'>-t: 










Aim- Jto<CYC<> / 



.._ T' 



I 1 



t 






r 






tx.-«^ ^ ^ia/~ KtrttCt- J Ki^A 



No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to 
the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq. 



Will Owen of Bodowen Esq'' and erected by his dear 
wife Anne. 

Under a monument erected against the east wall 
of the church where a knight in armour and a lady 

^ Llysdulas. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 35 

are kneeling before an altar are the following curious 
lines containing more of loyalty than poesy (fol. 59) — 

To the memory of Hugh Owen Esq'^'" of Bodowen who died the 
twenty first of October sixteen hundred fifty nine. 

Religion, learning, friends, poor have lost 

A noble patron who maintained them at his cost 

His country's patriot most firme to loyalty 

And for being loyal suffer'd infinitely 

With foes would not cologne nor his prince betray 

But livde his faithful subject every day. 

This monument was made by Anne his beloved wife 
the daughter and inheritrix of Richard Williams of 
Llasd^las Esq''^ in memory of her deare husband 
sixteen hundred sixty. 

Mr. Meyricke the owner of Bodowen is first repair- 
ing his family chapel on the opposite side. The 
original edifice as appears by a stone lying in the 
church was built by Richard Meyricke Esq''^ anno 
sixteen hundred forty (fol. 59a) and the vault under- 
neath by his great grandson Owen Meyricke Esq*"^ 
seventeen hundred thirty. The evening was closing 
in fast before we had finished our observations at 
Llancadwaladr. 

A dreary walk of two miles over the sands to 
Al)erftraw was rendered still more disagreeable by an 
incessant and heavy rain and we had no small degree 
of anxiety the whole of our walk lest we should be 
still more unfortunate in not gaining admittance at 
the public house as we understood that a number of 
Westleans with Mr. Charles at their head were to 
have a meeting the following day in the village. 
However on our arrival at the house we found a good 
welcome and much better quarters than we had reason 
to expect. After a comfortable supper of boiled rabbit 
we retired to rest. 



r. 9. 



36 TEN days' tour through 



(fol. 61) Sunday, Decr. 5 

This morning after breakfast the weather being 
tolerably fair we walked to Henblas in the parish of 
Llangristiolus in expectation of seeing a cromlech 
mentioned in our list. In our way thither we skirted 
a lake^ about two miles in circumference and noticed 
large flocks of wild ducks and other acquatic birds near 
the shore but on our approach they swam immediately 






>, .- ; ' u <.r o Mott c-''''' * ^" 





^ , 









. V' .^ /.)•'■■;/ ■ 






No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas. 

to the middle of the water. About a mile and a half 
beyond we passed a large house called Trefyla^ belong- 
ing to Mr. Evans and at Henblas another the property 
of his sister but at present only tenanted by a gardener 
who accompanied us over the fields to the object we 
came in search of. We here found three immense 
stones two of them above fifteen feet high and nearly 
the same in width standing upright in the ground, 
another of a (fol. 61a) flatter form leant against them. 
I cannot imagine there is anything artificial in the 
arrangements of these ponderous bodies but that their 

^ Llyn Coion. ^ Trefeilir. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA ST 

jDosition is the one they were placed in by the hand of 
nature. Whether they ever were or were not employed 
by the Druids I do not pretend to determine. And 
here we may observe the word cromlech is applied by 
the Welsh indiscriminately to stones either natural or 
artificial if they are only found inclining in such a 
direction that there is a hollow underneath. The 
largest stone in the pass of Llanberis which not many 



< 



1 





/ ^' m\ - '^\....A:A:^. 



>;;■%■ -V:^ 



No. 23. Cerigainwj'ii Cliuicli. 

years ago rolled from the heights above obtains the 
name of cromlech vawr and the same may be observed 
in many other instances. On returning from this spot 
the gardener who seemed to be an intelligent man 
j)ointed to a rising ground to the southward about two 
miles oft which he said was called (fol. 02) Ester^ mon 
eglwr where are still to be traced the foundations of 
an ancient fortress and tradition says a lofty watch 
tower once stood on this eminence commanding the 

^ Treijjaniedd ? three miles to the north. " Ester mon es^lwr" — 
bliould this read maes elidr ? "1 Esgair maes elidr." 



38 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



circumference of the Island. From hence a causeway 
ran across the low ground to^vards a large carnedd 
wherein were discovered many human bones. Not far 
from hence he himself picked up a piece of silver coin 
which he had given to a lady in the neighbourhood. 




^^w^U 



i^ 



I \. 



X 



Hi 



j> 




nrili 



^^'i 






No. 24. Clochty at Caregaiuwin Church. 

As we had received intelligence of some old characters 
cut in the wall of Cerigainwyn^ Church we walked 
thither and were glad to find t^omething better worthy 
of notice than the cromlech we had quitted for here 
are still visible some large Saxon characters cut very 
deep in the stone of the clochti or belfry. In order to 

^ Cerrigceinwen, 



The isle of anglesea 



39 



transcribe them more perfectly I procured a ladder and 
mounted aloft but this (fol. 62a) enterprize was 
attended with no small difficulty for being obliged to 
employ both hands while sketching and the ladder 
lying very slanting I could only depend upon the toes 



/.■ 




-|]#'^ 
1^!^ 



J^H^ 



:-^^ 







ty^ 



No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church. 



of my boots for support against the wall. Whilst thus 
situated there came on a violent storm of sleet and 
hail which so benumbed my hands I hurried the busi- 
ness more than I otherwise should have done but still 
I think I have the drawing pretty exact. These rude 
Saxon characters appear to be coeval with the building 



40 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 




No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigaiuwin Church. 




No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Cliurch. 



and probably were designed to perpetuate the name of 
its founder and the date of the foundation but when 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



41 



the original edifice grew to decay they were taken out 
of their original order and placed just as they happened 
to come into use in the building the clochti so that 
many of the letters are lost or inverted. I think I am 
authorized to make this conjecture by the (fol. 69) 
present appearance of the u and the s which are 
evidently reversed. Other letters are also wanting to 
make good the inscription. The font within the church 
is without doubt equally ancient as it retains the 
Runic lines and ornaments which were used among 




No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigaiuwin Chviicb. 

the northern nations of the sixth and seventh century. 
Of this I made three drawings. The clerk a surly 
Jewish looking fellow seemed at first inchned to be very 
impudent, but I did not neglect to fee him for the 
same reason the Angfel did the Miser in Parnell's 
beautiful poem of the Hermit namely to make him 
more civil and attentive to other travellers should 
curiosity ever lead them to this spot. The clouds now 
gathering round us and everything seeming to portend 
bad weather we made the best of our way to Aber- 
fFraw having altogether walked twelve miles. 



42 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



(fol. 69a) Monday, Decr. 6 

We found there was so much to be seen in the 
neighbourhood of Aberifraw that we determined on 
prolonging our stay for another day at our present 
station. About nine attended by the same person 
who went with us yesterday we walked to the parish 
church which outwardly resembles other Welsh build- 







No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.] 



ings of the kind but on entering we observed a neat 
turned Saxon arch to the west end underneath the 
clochti an evident token that this part of the build- 
ing was of a more ancient date and most likely erected 
during the times the Saxons held the Island which was 
for above a century. Aberffraw afterwards became 
the residence of the North Welsh princes and we may 
suppose it was a place of the greatest consequence in 
the Island though now it scarcely deserves the title of 
a village. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



43 



(fol. 73) Not far from the church they point out a 
field where the palace of Llewelyn stood but no traces 
remain the ground having been cleared quite to the 
foundation. Proceeding in a northwesterly direction 
for a mile and a half we came to the little church of 
Llangwyfan. This is erected on a rocky peninsula 
jutting out into the sea and is an Island at high water 
so that not unfrequently the congregation are inter- 
rupted in their devotion by the rapid approach of the 




No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfau Church. 



waves. From its exposed situation to the weather 
and from the spray of the sea beating against its 
walls the stones in parts are fretted like a honeycomb 
which gives it a most venerable appearance though 
from the shape of the windows at the east end I shouki 
not suppose it was above four centuries standing. 
Whilst I was sketching the font and part of tlio interior 
Russell copied a curious (fol. 73o) epitaph to the 
memory of Mr. Woode written about the year sixteen 
hundred two an asfe remarkable for its false wit and 



44 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



punnino- indeed must have been very prevalent to 
have found its way to so remote a quarter as this. 
Inscribed on a brass plate let into a stone slab is 
the following epitaph : 

Felix ter felix niarmor quia nobile lignu'" 
Quo caret infelix insula marmor liabes 
Owen et patriae vivens fuit utile lignu"' 
Et lignu'" vitae post sua fata Deo 
Filius ista meo posui monumenta parenti 
Sic precor et tecum nomen [et] Owen idem 
In obitum Oweni Woode armigeri qui 
Obiit G die April A" Dni 1602 ^tat 70. 




..J L__ I 



A 






! fit ' f^ 



J. 



J.^a*t^Uj-ij^a^n. h-OX.<.,t-4L- 




j5 I a „ 



O-aA* un-mM ad, Ihjt ut-fi^.i^uJ-i £^^ 



m eLoAt nn-cnJ. 



No. 32. 



(fol. 76) In our way back we collected some 
beautiful specmiens of sea weed and a few shells and 
passing- by a large mansion^ house the former habi- 
tation of this Mr. Woode but now rented of Mr. 
Meyricke by a farmer we walked a mile farther to 
Mynnedd- Cnwc having understood there was a crom- 
lech to be seen there. 

Mynnedd Cnwc is a promontory running two or 

1 Llangwyfan House. . Mynydd Cnwc. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



45 



three hundred yards into the sea and fornaing the 
northern boundary of a small bay called Port Tre 
Castel to the south of which on a semicircular rock 
about fifty yards over jutting into the bay we observed 
a deep trench and mound cut towards the land side 
and a square earth work of smaller dimensions a 
little beyond this doubtless was the work of inva- 
ders on their first landing. Instead of a cromlech 



.<-"^\M; 





■'^^i l^i/ffM 







'3sm^^ 



No. 33. Remains of a Caruedd at Myaydd-y-Cn\vc. 



at Mynnedd Cnwc we found the vestiges of a large 
caruedd many of the fiat stones of the cist faen or 
chamber are still remaining' but the small ones have 
been almost all removed to build a wall close at hand 
(fol. 77a). On another fork of the peninsula about an 
hundred yards distant we observed the traces of another 
carnedd of much smaller dimensions. From the nature 
of their situation, the bay, the earth work &c. it is not 
improbable to suppose that an engagement here took 
place with the natives wherein some principal officers 



46 



TEN DATS TOUR THROUGH 



were slain and interred on the spot. A natural cavern 
in the rock penetrates for some distance in the penin- 
sula but it being liigh tide we could not satisfy our 
cariosity in examining it. The country people have a 
strange idea of spirits haunting these carnedds and 
frequently see lights (Ignis fatuus) hovering round the 
point. They moreover report that an iron boot was 
dug up not long ago full of money but on further 
enquiry the money vanished and so did the boot too. 




No. 34. Oaer Cromlech in the Parish of Llanfaelog. 

By the description of a man who had seen it I believe it 
was no other than a gambado belonging to Mr. Woode 
or some of his descendants 

(Pol. 80) Hence continuing our walk to the north- 
ward we passed through the parish of Llanfaelog and 
about half a mile beyond the church came to a very 
perfect cromlech.^ The cap stone is rather of an oblong 
shape and measured sixteen feet long, six wide, and 
three thick. It only rested upon three supporters 
each about three feet high although there were four 

1 At Ty Newydd. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



47 



placed in the ground. Near the cromlech were lying 
two large stones, the one seventeen feet long and three 
thick. Having made two drawings on the spot we 
were invited by a country woman to take some refresh- 
ment at her house, and whilst she went forward to 
prepare for our reception we walked about half a mile 
further towards the river CrighilP to see another 
cromlech.' This stood on low ground quite in a swamp 
the cap stone like that at Maen Llhwyd has been 




No. .36. Demolished Cromlech near the River Crighyll. 

thrown down and its supporters lie near it. Also 
many other stones from three to five feet long to the 
number of thirty lie (fol. 8 Oo^) scattered in all directions 
around it. Having hastily sketched this remain we 
followed the direction of a person who persuaded us 
there were some very ancient letters on a stone placed 
in a wall about an hundred yards distant. Above a 
quarter of an hour was employed to no purpose in the 
search. At length assisted by some men who came 



Crigyll. 



2 At Pentraeth. 



48 TEN days' tour through 

from a neighbouring field whose zeal in the business 
was augmented by the promise of a shilling we 
discovered the valuable antique which had been em- 
ployed as a land mark and traced the letters o. w. one 
thousand six hundred and sixty four very legibly on 
the surface. 

How many hundreds would have laughed at the 
distress of the young antiquarians on this occasion but 
as the more learned of that venerable society are 
continually exposed to similar or greater mistakes we 
must find shelter from the shafts of ridicule under the 
shade of (fol. 82) their protecting wings. At the farm 
house we found some white bread and cheese and 
butter milk placed on a clean cloth waiting our arrival 
and returning many thanks to our kind entertainer 
who was as pretty as she was obliging we took our 
leave and proceeded towards a barn in the neighbour- 
hood where with the assistance of a lanthorn I traced 
the characters kalis deeply cut in a stone now serving 
as the lintern to a small window but said to have been 
taken from a field near the spot. I think these 
characters are Roman as the style of the l cut 
obliquely much resembles what I have noticed on 
some inscriptions in the north of England made a 
short time before the Romans quitted the island. 
Returned to Aberffraw across a large warren appar- 
ently well stocked v/ith rabbits. They are sold in these 
parts for fourpence apiece, fowls are also equally 
cheap, so that with the assistance of fish the inhabit- 
ants can fiire very luxuriantly without butcher's meat. 
A farmer overtook (fol. 82a) and accompanied us to 
Aberffraw. In the course of conversati(jn he said it 
was this day seventeen years being the Carnarvon fair 
on which the passage boat was lost and eighty people 
perished in the Menai most of whom were inhabitants 
<)f the island by which sad catastrophy nearly every 
family liad to lament the loss of some relative. 

Ill the evening we received a visit from Mr. Row- 
lands curate of Aberffraw, on enquiring of him what 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 49 

was become of the various coins which had been dug 
up in these parts of the island he said that most 
of them had been taken to Mr. Meyricke who he was 
sure would be very happy in shewing them to us, but 
we were so apprehensive of being detained by the 
weather at this time of the year that we could not 
venture to spend the following day at Aberffraw 
though the civility and attention we experienced from 
our hostess would have been a stronsf inducement at a 
more favourable season. 



(fol. 83) Tuesday, Deck. 7 

Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we 
quitted it this morning about ten and pursued the 
same track we had done yesterday for about three 
miles when crossing the Crighyll and traversing a bleak 
heath rendered still more unpleasant by heavy storms 
of wind and rain we arrived at Llanfihangle yn 
nhewlyn^ expecting to find some ancient remains in 
this parish. We only saw some large loose stones upon 
the summit of the rocks which seem to have little 
claim to the interference of the Druids to place them 
in their present position. On enquiring at a cottage 
near this spot whether there were any carnedds or 
chromlechs to be seen we exposed ourselves to the 
ridicule of two old women who enjoyed a hearty laugh 
at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones. 

Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way 
to Bodedern situated on the turnpike road about eight 
miles from Holyhead. This place did not prepossess 
us much in its favour as it seemed to promise but sorry 
accommodations (fol. 83rt). However we were obliged 
to put up with them unless we made up our minds to 
reach Holyhead which would have thrown us nearly a 
day backward in our march. Having ordered the best 
the house could aftbrd for dinner we walked nearly a 

' ^Nhewyii, 



50 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



mile along the turnpike road in the direction of 
Gwindy^ when turning off into a field to the left we 
approached one of the finest and most finished crom- 
lechs^ we have yet seen in the island the cap stone 
measuring four yards and a half long four yards wide 
and two yards thick^ its three supporters each about 
a yard and a half high. Indeed there is a fourth 
nearly of the same height but it does not touch the 
stone above. Under this cromlech we were informed 




No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche. 

a whole family who had been ejected from their 
habitation sought shelter during the last winter. There 
was another cromlech close at hand but the cap stone 
had been forced down and rests in a slantinof direction 
against the supporters the top stone of this measured 
three yards long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half 
wide and its supporters nearly two yards high. An 
old mansion near the spot was we understand the 
residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married King 

^ Gwyndj, 2 ^t Presaddfedd. 3 Feet ? 



THE ISLE OF AXGLESEA 51 

master of the ceremonies at Bath. The premises seem 
to be very much out of repair having been untenanted 
for some tim*. Returned about four to our homely 
dinner of bacon and greens. In the evening after 
retracing my sketches I took a copy of a pkm that was 
in the room of the intended bridge over the Menai. 
This if it ever is put into execution will be a stupendous 
work as it will be nearly half a mile long and built 
pretty strong to resist the tides. On the twenty-ninth 









A ^^ 


\ 


— r-4\jry,«^-4^. 


~»^ 


' , 




— _- 


^ 






No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche. 

of April 1785 a meeting was first held for the purpose 
of consulting about it at St. Alban's tavern when the 
following resolutions passed : first, that the erecting 
a carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will 
be of great public utility— second— that it appears 
from the reports and concurrent opinions of several 
able engineers that the erecting a timber bridge upon 
piles with three swivel bridges will not be detrimental 
(fol. 87a) to the navigation of the said streights and 
therefore we approve of a bridge being erected on 

• D 2 



52 TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 

that plan, third, that we will support the application 
made to parliament for an act for building a bridge 
across the said str eights agreeable to the above plan. 
N. Bailey, chairman. Afterwards follow the signature 
of the noblemen and gentlemen. Here we see the 
first intention was to have constructed one of wood 
with three swivel bridges for the convenience of vessels 
passing to and fro. Now according to the present 
plan it is to be of stone with three center arches 
sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass 
with all her sails set. God knows whether this plan 
will ever be brought to perfection but in this mechani- 
cal age we can scarcely wonder at the projection ot* 
any enterprize however vast or difficult. If we were 
not pleased with our fare much less were we with our 
sleeping apartments at this place the upper story was 
(fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof 
being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal 
boards wherein are placed the different beds for the 
family and strangers We slept in separate beds it is 
true, but every word that was said, nor ought that 
was done could pass unheard for all was as manifest to 
the ear at least as though we had been in the same 
dormontory. I was unfortunately situated, in having 
some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not 
being above half an inch thick I may literally say they 
were close at my ear. Different kinds of music re- 
sounded from different parts of the room. I bore all 
this harmonious combination of sounds with the 
philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck three, when 
my next neighbour played so violently on the double 
bass I lost all patience and began knocking with equal 
violence on the partition between us. This not only 
awoke him but every part of the house was soon in 
motion and the host got up grumbling and swearing 
and called the people about him to go and (fol. 89a) 
see who it was who knocked at the door for they 
imagined it was some traveller who wished to gain 
admittance. In the course of an hour when the tumult 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 5.S 

was subsided I dropped asleep and was roused by 
our guide whour I' had ordered to call nie at half 
past six. * 

Wednesday, Deck. 8 

We were not sorry to leave this place as soon as it 
was light paying much higher for our miserable enter- 
tainment than we had done at any place in the island. 
First directed our steps along the turnpike to Llan- 
drugan\ situated near G windy the halfway house 
between Beaumaris and Holyhead our host having 
given us to understand there was a very ancient stone 
near the church which many travellers went to look 
at but few could read the inscription. He himself 
among the rest although he said he was a good 
schollar having been clerk of Bodedern many years 
could (fol. 90) make nothing of it. On arriving at the 
spot we found a flat tomb stone to the right of the 
entrance door bearing the following lines legibly cut on 
its surface : 

Reader in me doe thou thyself behold 
Wilonie full hie but now full low in mould 
Bodychens heyr I was my name was John 
The second who that sirname fixt upon 
Credit nor wealth nor friends I did not lacke 
Heare dead and dust loe all doe me forsake 
The day draws on when God me hence shall raise 
Amongst his chosen his great name to praise. 

On the side nearest the church door : 

Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis milessimo 
sexto centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae septuagesimo. 

On the opposite side : 

Moestissima uxor Margaretta monumentum hoc delectessimo 
conjugi piae memoriae amoris ergo posuit vicessimo die Martii anno 
milessimo aexgentessimo quadragessimo. 

Though we copied the inscription being on the spot 

' Llandrygarn. 



54 TEN days' tour through 



we did not think it deserving a digression of three 
miles to read especially as we had so much to perform 
before night. 

Hence we hastened forward to Llantrisant not 
without some apprehension in being equally deceived 
in an ancient inscription we learnt was to be seen there 
cut on the stone'^ of a gateway. On enquiring at a 
farm house we found it had been taken up from the 
gate and placed in a kind of shed as a block to chop 
sticks on. This intelligence conveyed through our 
interpreter did not quiet our fears for the fate of the 
inscription, however towards the place we went and 
fortunately found the stone lying with the inscription 
downwards (fol. 92). On the edge was engraved Aroe 
lapidibus in the manner I have shewn in my sketch. 
Havino^ with the assistance of four stout fellows turned 
the stone I traced as nearly as I could the characters 
as they appear in my drawing. The stone was of a 
lozenge form about six feet high and three wide, and I 
conjecture was first of all employed by the Romans as 
a direction across the country, as the words Aroe 
lapidibus to the stones of Aroe seem to imply. The 
second inscription was probably cut some centuries 
after in monkish times as appears by the words 
moribus disciplinae et sapientiae coming together in 
the conclusion of the sentence. Indeed many of the 
upright pillars we have met with in the island I 
imagine were intended as directions or boundaries and 
not at all connected Avith druidical worship as Mr. 
Rowlands seems to suppose. The day by this time 
being far advanced we exerted ourselves as much as 
the country would (fol. 92a) allow to gain Llanbabo 
church four miles distant in sufficient time to copy an 
ancient stone dug up here in the reign of Charles the 
second bearing the effigies of Pabo post Prid or Prince 
Pabo the support of Britain who flourished about the 
year four hundred sixty and who is said to have 

^ Now at Trescawen. 



\VA 



V 




SIR 
ROE 



WROE 
LAPIDIBV 



H 



!). 



/VATIS 
A I C i^; 

5 P •■'•■••,■:;.- 



N U R 



'■' 9"''' ECV5 

5 N A R CC:.r CEFOMW 

yMCWVW Ndc^VKR 
PARE/VTVViEXEMr\ 
lET MORIBVS 0»S 
^lP^^\^f AAECSAPiEh'i 
iTlAE 



■A'" Z^ I SPonJi. U^. tloM^TT^cKfU Thru^ 



56 TEN days' tour through 

built and to have been buried in this church. His 
effioies are designed on a flat stone resembhng free 
stone, the figure crowned with a sceptre in its right 
hand and a close garment down to its feet. On the 
edge of the stone these characters are cut hie jacet 
Pabo post Prid the remainder is very much defaced 
but I should read it qui edificavit hanc ecclesiam. 

For my own part I cannot but think that the whole 
of this is some ages later than Pabo's time as both the 
sculpture and the formation of the letters are those 
of the thirteenth or fourteenth century. We know 
that in Roman catholic countries it is very common 
for the priests to preserve (fol. 95) the effigies of their 
founders and benefactors in their churches and monas- 
teries and might not this have been presented to the 
church by some rich family in the neighbourhood by 
way of acquiring the favour of the sainted patron. The 
letters here noticed very much resemble those I have 
copied from the monument in Bettws y Coed church 
in Carnarvonshire. I took as perfect a drawing as 
my time would allow and afterwards just sketched the 
entrance door and three uncooth and at present white- 
washed visages let into the stone above and on each 
side of it. These are of such rude workmanship that 
I should rather attribute them to the time of Pabo 
than the subject we have just considered. A kind of 
waving line over the arch of the door as described in 
my sketch is I conjecture no less antique. The church 
itself differs in no other respect from the generality of 
Welsh buildings, and the parish is so scattered that 
not above two houses are to be seen in any direction. 

From hence to Llanfechell we experienced a dirty 
swampy and fatiguing walk (fol. 95a) of four miles 
and the termination of it was rendered still more 
unfortunate as we found the public house so indifferent 
we could not think of spending the night there 
accordingly we hastened by the light of the moon to 
examine some stones and a cromlech about half a mile 
beyond leaving our interpreter who seemed to be 



1 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 57 

pretty well tired of antique hunting to eat his dinner, 
in the interini^the liost of the public house officiating 
in his stead. Under his guidance we first visited 
three upright stones standing on a rising ground 
placed three paces asunder forming an exact triangle. 
They were about seven feet high and two feet and 
a half wide. These I make no doubt were intended 
as a direction to travellers as they might be seen from 
every rising hillock in the neighbourhood and also 







^ 



,J.:i. 



r 



J 






....^ 



>\m 




No. 45. Stoues in Llaufecliell Parish. 

from the coast, we could not learn that they were 
called by any particular name if it had sounded any- 
thing like aroe it would have thrown some light upon 
the inscription in Llantrisant parish. 

From hence passing by an old {fol. 98) mansion 
named cromlech now tenanted by a farmer we came to 
the spot where many large stones were lying scattered 
promiscuously on the ground and one nearly square 
measuring nine feet across leaning against some u})- 
rights about six feet high. From the appearance 
of this place I should rather imagine that it had been 



58 



TEN DATS TOUR THROUGH 



the interior or cistfaen of a carnedd and this opinioti 
seems somewhat confirmed by the accounts of the 
common people who remember great quantities of 
stone having been removed to form a wall. Returning 
to the public house we made a meal on bread and 
cheese and afterwards procuring the key of the church 
we examined its interior. The font is square having 
a double Saxon arch rudely carved on each face. 




Llaufechell Church. 




Font, Llanfechell Church. 



Over the communion table is a Latin inscription to 
Mr. Humphreys Rector of the parish which we tran- 
scribed : 

Cineribus sacrum 

H. S. E. 

(fol. 98a) RoBERTUs Humphreys M.A. 

vii" eruditus perquam et modestus 

Rei medicae 

praesertim botanicae apprime gnarus 

Praxique claruit 

hujus ecclesiae per tria et amplius lustra 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 59 

Extitit Rector 
ohiit'Xiii id Junii anno mdccix 

^ ^tatis suae LViii 

Dnus dnus Ricardus Nicom. Bulkeley pro digno qui haberet 
defuncto hoc positum voluit 

A long five miles ^Yalk l:)roiight us to Amlwch 
where with some little difficulty (the hostess not 
admiring our pedestrian appearance) we gained admit- 
tance, a good supi^er and comfortable sleeping appart- 
ments which indeed were not a little refreshinof after 
(fol. 101) the labours uf the day and the adventures 
of the preceeding night. 



Thursday, Deck. 9 

Amlwch is a long straggling place and may contain 
from four to five thousand inhabitants thouoii before 
the working of the Parys mines there were not an 
hundred tenements in the parish. Besides two or 
three good houses a church has been lately erected by 
the copper company on a neat substantial plan and a 
quay formed near the smelting houses where ships of 
two or three hundred tons burthen may take in their 
lading. These we passed in our way to Llanelian 
church this morning which we had been directed to 
examine as one of the most curious structures in the 
island. This church differs from most others in North 
Wales in having a kind of spire rising from a square 
tower. I cannot say that this edition is very elegant 
it being coated all the way up with small slate. The 
body of the church is ornamented with battlements, 
pinnacles, and (fol. 101a) buttresses in the style of our 
parish churches built about the time of Henry the 
seventh. Having procured the key we found the 
interior still retaining its catholic collection of saints 
and apostles, and the seats, chancel, and communion- 
table, were decorated with a profusion of carving in 
oak. On the latter on a kind of scroll we read non nobis 
Domine non nobis sed nomine tuo. Beneath the arches 



60 



TEN DAYS TOUR THR0UC4H 



which supported the roof of the building were six 
grotesque little figures, playing on the bagpipe, pibcorn, 
and other instruments, their appearance is rendered 
still more ridiculous by their being painted in black 
coats, yellow waistcoats, and white wigs. In a small 
chapel attached to the south east end of the church 
(which is said to have been the original edifice founded 
by Saint Elian) there is a kind of semicircular chest or 
cabinet made of oak into which whoever can enter and 




Jj-. Jl.3-^. 



•^^^MiM-^ 



No. 46. Llanelian Church. 



turn himself round is sure in the opinion of the vulgar 
to live out the year but if he fails it will (fol. 102) 
prove fatal to him. People from all parts come at 
stated periods to try their destiny in this absurd way. 
There is also an old chest well secured by bolts bars 
and nails in another part of the church having a small 
slit in the lid through which the country people are 
said to drop a piece of money uttering their maledic- 
tions against their enemies the black gentleman is 
thus feed to work evil against the offender, this 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 61 

uncharitable and unchristian custom if true seems 
almost too bad*eVen-for monkish times much worse 
to be continued now. Having viewed these rehcs of 
superstition we ascended by a circuLar tower to the roof 
[of] the church which is very nicely leaded. On 
enquiring afterwards of a Welsh clergyman why 
Llanelian was so much better taken care of than other 
parish churches I found that some lands had been 
appropriated by one of the Welsh princes centuries 
ago by way of expiation for his sins to kec}) it in 
constant repair, this accounts for its having a steeple, 
being leaded, &c. &c. 

After sketching the building we returned (fol. 102«) 
to Amlwch, on our way thither obtained a very clear 
view of the Isle of Man lying only sixteen leagues to 
the north of this coast. Could we have insured a 
week's fine w^eather we should not have hesitated an 
instant including that island in our circuit as I have 
long wished to satisfy myself respecting some ancient 
inscri])tions at Pielstown. I understand there is almost 
daily communication through the herring boats which 
come here to dispose of their cargoes. Having taken 
a slight repast at Amlwch we proceeded to the Parys 
mountain which of late years has enriched not only 
many individuals but the nation at large. It lies 
about a mile south of the town and though denomina- 
ted a mountain, in Carnarvonshire at least w^ould be 
deemed a very inconsiderable hillock. The approach 
to it is dreary in the extreme for the sulphurious steams 
issuing from the copper kilns have destroyed every 
germ ot vegetation in the neighbourhood. When we 
had gained (fol. 103) the higher ground the unin- 
teresting and gloomy prospect we had hitherto observed 
was at once converted into the most lively and active 
scene. Hundreds of men, women, and children, ap- 
peared busily occupied in the different branches of this 
vast concern and the bustle of the metropolis prevailed 
amidst the dreary recesses of the Druids. The produce 
of the mountain belongs to two different companies 



62 TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 

one called the Parys Mine shared between Lord 
Uxbridge, Mr. Hughes, and Mr. Williams. The 
other, the Mona mine I believe is Lord Uxbridge's 
alone. 

Our servant having delivered a message from the 
people of the inn to one of the overseers of the Parys 
mine, he accompanied us over the works. A stranger 
not acquainted with mining concerns cannot do better 
than take his first lesson at this place. There being 
no necessity of descending into subterrianean abodes 
to grope out for information by candle light, incommo- 
ded by damp, dirt, and foul vapours, for all is here 
worked open to the day and by taking his station in 
one (fol. 103a) point he can command a view of the 
whole proceedings from the beginning to the end and 
receive every satisfactory explanation almost without 
moving from the spot. We first were conducted to 
some wooden stages erected on the edge of the bason 
if I may so employ that term to an immense excava- 
tion of an oval form about two hundred yards long, 
half so much in width and eighty in depth which has 
been hollowed out in the course of twenty years, 
these wooden stages are each supplied with a windlass 
for the purpose of drawing up the ore from the bottom. 
On looking down from hence to the chasm beneath, 
we saw the rock rich with ore of a light gold colour 
which the miners were busily employed in boring, 
blasting, breaking with sledge hammers, wheeling the 
fragments to appointed places beneath the stages filling 
the baskets which were hauled up as before mentioned 
by the windlass. There might be from twelve to 
fourteen stages erected for this purpose in different 
(fol. 104) parts of the mine. 

As soon as the commodity is landed it is delivered 
to a number of women and children to be broken into 
smaller pieces. The good ore is then separated from 
that of an inferior sort and carried to kilns to be 
baked. The sulphur forms in what is called flour 
brimstone by the chy mists on the top of the oven. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA G3 

This is afterwards collected, melted in large cauldrons 
and formed intp roUnd moulds for sale. 

We understood that the better kind of ore was sent 
to Neath and other places, and the inferior to the 
smelting houses at Amlwch. In walking round the 
premises we crossed a small stream running into some 
square reservoirs, this water was so impregnated 
with copper that merely the dipping a key in for two 
or three seconds rendered it entirely the colour of that 
metal. The square reservoirs above mentioned was 
stored with all the old iron that could be collected 
which are turned monthly the coperas on them sinking 
in a kind (fol. 104a) of red slime to the bottom. 

At stated times the pits are emptied and the 
produce when hardened becomes equally valuable to 
the richest ore in the mines. We may be sure that 
every drop of this precious stream is turned to the best 
account possible indeed so productive is it that they 
compute it to be worth above three halfpence a quart. 
On entering the compting house one of the clerks sitting 
there obligingly gratified us with the sight of a number 
of drawers full of the most beautiful specimens of 
minerals I ever saw and moreover requested us to take 
oar choice of what we most admired. We were con- 
strained to be very moderate on account of the weight 
of the article but if we could have procured a ready 
carriage I fancy we should have been rather more 
greedy in our selection. At it was we took nearly 
five pounds' weight of the following minerals and 
mixtures (fol. 105) : 

First. Mundig containing sulphur and iron. 

2. Iron incrusted witli lead chrystals. 

3. Copper ore. 

4. Copper ore after roasting. 

5. Copper taken from the reservoir of old iron. 

6. Quartz containing copper ore. 

7. Ziiik commonly called black Jack incorporated with copper 

rock holding a small quantity of lead. 

8. Quartz with a little of the Ziuk and chrystals. 



64 TEN days' tour through 

9. Pure copper. 

10. Blue stone issuing from the copper rocks, 

11. Sulphur. 

12. Copper coming from the old iron after it is dried. 

Hence we just looked into the assay house but 
could not see the process the man having concluded 
work we also viewed the kilns and the coppers where 
the sulphur is melted. Having taken a very competent 
surV'Oy and complimented our obliging and intelligent 
conductor for his trouble in the best manner we were 
able, we took a long walk for nearly five miles to the 
west of Parys mountain towards Llanfechell where we 
heard there was (fol. 105a) a prodigious large stone with 
writinQc under it to be seen. Our conductor who was 
a young man of Amlwch speaking pretty good English 
entertained us the whole way by a variety of ghost 
stories and preternatural events the common talk of 
the neighbourhood. The stone we were going to see 
was so big that it would sink the largest ship that 
came to Amlwch. That it stood in a valley by itself 
resting on a flat stone whereon a good many characters 
were engraved but nobody was able to make them out 
but should some learned person have that good fortune 
the stone would immediately move off of itself and 
there would be a pot of gold to reward him for his 
schollarship. That a countryman living hard by had 
seen the treasure three followinof nig-hts in his dreams 
and had spent some time in digging for it but all to 
no purpose for it was not intended for him. On 
telling our guide he should equally (fol. 107) share 
whatever we discovered it quickened our march 
astonishingly and I really believe we were not above 
an hour in reaching the stone notwithstanding the 
many impediments which crossed our way. On which 
we passed an upright stone about seven feet high in 
the middle of a field resembling some of those we 
before noticed as boundaries. Here exclaimed Sancho 
a man also found a considerable treasure, although 
amused by his simplicity it in some measure weakened 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



do 



the interest we had taken in the object of our walk 
and we felt the less disappointed at finding we had 
taken our ramUe in vain when Ave arrived at the spot. 
For a candle being procured at the treasure dreamer's 
cottao-e we discovered that what they took for letters 
were nothing but a few natural crevices in the rock, 
and that the stone itself though of some magnitude' 
possessed no more claim to notice than any other 
detached fragment lying by the road side. (fol. I07rt) 




-.-^ 



^ UtJ: LtaL ,/^>Wi* 




No. 48. Ff edoged-y- Gowres. 

However disappointed we concealed our chagrin and 
even suffered our conductor to take us half a mile out 
of the way to see an immense stone which he said was 
called Praes Maen on account of a brass pot being 
placed near it and that when the sun shone whoever 
could trace the shadow at a particular time of the day 
would discover a great treasure in a brass vessel. It 
was moonlight when we arrived at this stone which 
certainly is more worthy of notice than the one we had 
quitted. It is standing upright in the midst of a field 
and measures thirteen feet high and fourteen and 



66 TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 

fifteen in circumference allowing four or five feet 
under ground, it must have been a very heavy body 
and cost some trouble to have erected it in its present 
position. Approaching nearer to Amlwch we observed 
our quondam loquacious compation become very silent, 
and just as we had passed an old wall about half a mile 
(fob 108) froin the town he told us with evident marks 
of trepidation that there was a ghost sitting there 
every night, on asking him if he had ever seen it he 
said no but that many of his friends had, it was in the 
shape of a woman and once had attempted to pull 
a farmer's wife off her horse but was prevented by the 
arrival of a second person when it vanished. That on 
Christmas Eve the inhabitants of Amlwch used to 
come to the spot in order to see how many lights 
would pass by and as many did so many persons 
as travelled that road would die within the twelve- 
month. 

I just mention these ridiculous stories to show that 
superstition still reigns here and this superstition has 
perhaps been the guardian to many of the druidical 
remains we noticed in the island. It was past six 
when we returned to the inn where we were welcomed 
by a most excellent repast. 



Friday, Decr, 10 

We could not leave the inn so soon as we intended 
on account (fol. 108a) of our boots not being ready so 
bad is the workmanship of the shoemakers in Wales 
that the repairs of one day were destroyed by the 
exertions of the next, and it was a business ahnost as 
regular as eating our dinner when we arrived at the 
mn to send our boots to get mended. Here I hope 
we have had them secured effectually as we ordered 
them to be studded with nails according to the fashion 
of the country. Although on our arrival we scarcely 
gained admittance at the inn as pedestrians yet on our 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 67 

departure we had to pay the bill calculated for eques-' 
trians of the first order so much had our consequence 
been raised b}^the loquacity of our attendant in the 
kitchen. 

This heavy blow on our finances with the loss we 
had sustained at Llanfechell caused a calculation to be 
made which promised only three days' supply sup- 
posing our concerns should fall into the hands of so 
experienced a scribe as the landlady at Amlwch 
(fol. 109). About eleven we were clear of the inn and 
took the road across the fields to the small church of 
Bodewryd where we understood were some remains of 
the Wynne family a branch of which family was 
settled at a large mansion now a farm near the spot. 
The church door being open we found the interior 
occupied by a grey headed pedagogue and his schollars. 
On the pulpit were carved the arms of the Wynne's 
and the seats and communion table exhibited the 
same kind of ornaments cut in oak before noticed at 
Llanelian. This living was augmented by Queen 
Anne's bounty and further donations as appears en- 
graven on a brass tablet aflSxed to the north side of 
the altar : 

M. S. 

Annae Reginae serenissimae 
cujus muniticentia sine exemplo maxim ae 
inter innumeras alias per magnam 
(fol. 109«) Britanniam late sparsas 

Tenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesia 
cujus stipendiura annuum xx solidos ante non exedebat 
libris ducentis donata est 
promovente interim pietatem banc 
et totidem libras de proprio conferente 
per ultimum testamentum suum 
Dat. 6*^" Septembris a.d. 1720 
Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de Llantrisant 
Filio Jobannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm. 
Sexto et natu maximo 
quibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctis 
Tenementa sequentia coempta 
et in usum ecclesiae prajdictae 
In perpetuum stabilita sunt 

E 2 



68 TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 

(fol. 110) 111° Nonas Decembris 1723 

viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &c. &c. 
Reditusque annuus 40 solidorum 
De Tre Anghared in Bodedern 
Com. Anglesea. 

In tantae munificentiae memoriam 
Tabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727. 

On the opposite side of the communion table on a 
similar tablet is engraved the pedigree of this branch 
of the Wynne's which is as follows : 

In hac Ecclesia jacent 

1. Rees (ap Lie well wyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan, ap 

Ednyfed ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn, 
ap Gwerydd ap Rees Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas 
ap Ellis Archidiaconi Monensis filiam obiit anno Dni 1500. 

(fol. 110«) 

2. David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27° Julii anno Dni 

1551 uxorem habuit Anghared tiliam et heredem de Plas y 
Brian in parochia de Llanbeder. 

3. Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam Con- 

way de Bryn Eyrinin Com. Carnaru. 

4. Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii 1596 

uxorem duxit Elizabethan! Sion ap Rees Bodychen. 

5. Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch Sion 

Griffith de Llanddyfran. 

6. Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam Pule- 

ston de LI wyn y Knottie in com. Flint. 

7. Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam 

filiam et cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus 
est cum auxore filioque natu maximo Johanne L L B in 
ecclesiae parochiali de Llantrissant de quo siquis (fol. Ill) 
ultra desideret monumentum patri suo B — M positum im- 
pensis Roberto Wyn A.M. ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris dig- 
nissimi consulat. 

Having finished our observations and preparing to 
leave the church we were not a little surprized by a 
request made by the schoolmaster for something to 
drink our healths, though I complied with his request 
I at the same time conveyed a kind of hint that an 
instructor should not be mercinary. However he 
pocketed the reproof with the money and I cannot say 
I discerned anything of that hectic flush come across 



TJlE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 69 

his cheek described by Sterne in his story of the poor 
Monk. , ' ' - 

Continuing Trom hence and passing by the magic 
stone which had drawn us so much out of our way the 
proceeding night we called at the treasure dreamer's 
cottage as he had promised to shew us an inscription 
which (fol. Ilia) he knew to be worthy of notice as a 
clergyman of Llanerchymedd had been to copy it. 
He was from home but his wife catching up her half 
grown child in her arms walked before us at such 
a rate we could scarcely keep up with her to the field 
where it stood. We here found some characters and 
just as I was preparing to take the impression of them 
with putty so violent and cold a storm of sleet and 
rain came on that we were forced to take shelter at a 
neighbouring farm. The farm house though of con- 
siderable extent was open all the way up to the roof 
the beds, kitchen, dairy, &c. being all contiguous to 
each other. This we found on enquiry was the 
common custom of the country. The weather holding 
up a little we returned to the spot, in the interval 
having learnt that the stone had some time since been 
broken in two in order to make a gate post of the 
lower part, we procured an (fol. 113) iron crow and 
with the assistance of two stout lads from the farm 
turned it over, it measures about four feet in length 
but retains no appearance of characters on its surface 
though by measuring its width we clearly discovered 
that it must formerly have been united to the upper 
part which is now fixed in the ground about an hundred 
yards distant. On returning thither I took a very 
exact copy. The name of the stone is Maen Hir 
Llanol with is interpreted the large stone with letters 
and when entire it must have been a conspicuous 
object from most parts of the island as it stands on 
very high ground. 

The weather continuing cold and disagreeable we 
hastened our march to Lianerchymedd our intended 
station for the night. Although the distance to this 



70 



TEN days' tour THROUGM 



place in a direct line is not above four miles and its 
situation clearly discerned from Maen Hir Llanol 
yet on account of the bogs and (fol. 113«) over- 
flowing of the river we were obliged to make a circuit 
of nearly twice that space round by Llanbabo. In our 




No. 49. Maen Hir Llanol. 



way passed a farm called Boddeiniol where w^e stopped 
to enquire for some druidical remains mentioned in 
Mr. Bingley's list as still visible, but the farmer who 
is apparently near eighty years old said he had never 
had heard of anything of the kind since he had lived 
ihere. But some time back in cleaning a pieCe of rough 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 71 

ground in one of his fields he discovered four burying 
places as J^e took' them to be the sides formed of Hat 
stones set upright in the ground and covered by others 
of the same irregular shape. Some of the stones he 
shewed us lying against a fence but none of them 
appeared to be above two feet and a half high. Crossed 
the river Trepont^ a little below Llaiibabo. This river 
is styled the largest in Anglesea although I am sure 
one might easily leap over the widest part the channel 
(fol. 114) when not flooded being not above twelve or 
fourteen feet across. Arrived at Llanerchymedd a 
little before four, enquiring of the innkeeper for an 
ancient stone with an inscription near the town he 
accompanied us to the house of a clergyman who he 
said was very curious in these particulars and would 
furnish us with every information on the subject. Our 
reception was very pleasing but we had been misin- 
formed in regard to the object of our enquiries there 
being no other antiques in the neighbourhood besides 
Maen Hir Llanol and the stone at Llantrisant al^out 
four miles distant. In the evening Mr. Richards the 
above mentioned gentlemen called upon us at the inn 
and during our conversation gave some interesting 
particulars of druidical remains in Bodafon mountain 
which we purpose visiting in his company tomorrow. 
This gentleman had a very perfect coin of Diocletian 
of which I took an impression in sealing wax (fol. 114r() 
in order to make a fac simile of the coin in isinglass on 
my return — if we cannot procure originals we must be 
content with copies. Having noted down the occur- 
rences of the day we retired to bed desiring to be 
called very early in order to get breakfast over by 
seven the time we had agreed to set out. 

1 Alaw? 



^2* 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



Saturday, Decr. 11 

A little before seven called at Mr. Richards's house 
whom we found waiting at the door ready to accom- 
pany us. He mounted his horse and we pursued the 
Beaumaris turnpike for half^ a mile when we turned to 
the left to look at a stone called Lleidr- y Frydog or the 
thief stone. This is a rough stone about six feet high 
having a kind of hump or projection near the top. 




No. 50. [Thief Stone.] 



The country people report that a thief who had stolen 
some books from a neighbouring church was in this 
place turned into stone with the sack containing his 
theft laying over his shoulder. About a quarter of a 
mile further Mr. Richards pointed to the spot where 
formerly stood the nunnery of Clorach or St. Claire 
and not far from it by the road side we saw two wells 
whose waters were enclosed in a square reservoir of 
stone work. Tradition says that the two saints Seriol 



^ Two miles. 



2 Careg Lleidr. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



73 



and Cybi (the former having a cell at Priestholme the 
latter at ^Holyhead where he founded a collegiate 
church) used to hold their weekly meetings at the.si 
springs to consult on religious matters, and from the 
circumstance of Seriol's travellinar westward in the 
morning and eastward in the evening, and Cybi on the 
contrary always facing the sun they were denominated 

Seriol wyn a Chyby felyn. 
Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney. 

When arrived at Bodafon hills a ridge of nu-ky 
ground (fol. 117a) extending nearly two miles east 







^^...^ 




Nu. 50a. Cromlech ou Bodafon Moimtaiu. 

and west Mr. Richards gave his horse to our attendant 
and accompanied us to a cromlech lying at the side of 
the hill denominated cromlech Lldercoch^ nearly square 
the upper stone being about eleven feet across sup- 
ported by four or five small uprights not above a foot 
and a half from the surface. This is by no means so 
perfect as some we have before noticed. Had not Mr. 
Kichards been positive of the fact I should have 
doubted whether it had been designed for one. Ar- 
rived nearly at the summit of the hill we entered a 
cottage inhabited by a countryman whose grand- 

1 Can this be meant for Lleidrgoch or Llechgoch 1 Possibly it 
should be Llidach as a chapel of this name used to stand ••Ins.- to the 
spot. — Cambrian Register, ii, 288. 



74 TEN days' tour through 

father and great grandfather resided there before him. 
Under the direction of this person we chmbed to the 
top of the hill to look at a Carnedd. Most of the 
loose stones have been removed but some of the flat 
ones which composed the cistfaen are still on the spot, 
another more perfect lies about an hundred (fol. 118) 
yards to the eastward of this, a third further beyond 
which we did not visit. In the course of our walk the 
Countryman pointed to a spot where he said his grand- 



( — *j. 



STr'*"^- 






No. 51. Bodafon Hills. 

mother whilst tending the cattle found a large trian- 
gular^ piece of gold as he called it, standing on three 
supporters weighing nearly forty pounds. The antique 
overgrown with heath but one of the beasts hap. 

1 The exact spot where the " triangular piece of gold" was found 
is not clearly indicated. Apparently it was on the North-West side 
of the mountain. Mr. Skinner, however, in his sketch, shows it on 
the South-East side. 

Probably the sketches were worked up in the evening from 
memory, which may account for the errors which appear in some of 
them. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 



75 



pening to tread upon it occasioned the discovery. 
This she ^old for three shilhngs at Llanerchyniedd. 

I should rather conceive that the metal was hrass 
but whatever it was it would have been of more con- 
siderable value in the eyes of the antiquarian. Not 
far from this place he pointed to a number of loose 
stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold 
tongues^ as many pieces of gold of that shape he said 
were formerly picked up here. From the formation 






■■^^S^^ 



yrr£^ X«-» 










5 ■£.. 







/f«^ J)) 



No. 52. South of Bodafoii Hill with a British Towu. 

here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment 
in pronouncing they were brass celts or British 
weapons and as a farther (fol. 118a) confirmation 
of this opinion not a great way distant facing the 
south we traced the remains of a large Britislr town. 

1 The position where these " gold tongues '" stood was probably 
on the North- West side of the mountain though shown by Mr. 
Skinner on the South-East. 

2 This town was Tre Beirdd on the North-West side of the 
mountain, incorrectly indicated on the South-East side on Mr. 
Skinner's ground plan. 



76 TEN days' tour THROUGH 

Here about forty or fifty foundations such as we have 
before noticed at Tre Eivan may be clearly discerned 
some lying in a cluster together others standing 
separate, others again having a square form the name 
given to these remains scattered over the island we 
were informed by our intelligent companion by Cyteau^ 
Gwydellhod not Irishmens huts as some have tran- 
slated it but the houses of the wild inhabitants. A 
spring rising near the spot still has a term of the same 
signification being stiled the well of the wild inhabit- 
ants. Some vestiges of similar'^ buildings are to be 
traced to the north side of the hill, as also on the 
rising ground facing that part of Bodafon we have just 
noticed. It is natural to suppose that when the island 
was covered with wood, the inhabitants would fix their 
residence on elevated stations as a security (fol. 120) 
against their enemies and beasts of prey we may 
suppose the lower parts of these huts were alone built 
of stone and that branches of trees and earth formed 
the covering like those at present used amongst the 
lowest orders of Irish peasantry and why may not 
this people have retained the mode observed by the 
ancient Britons from whence they derive their origin. 
The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east 
commanding almost the whole circuit of the island. 
Here a beacon used to be lighted in case of invasion 
or to convey signals to the opposite coast of Carnar- 
vonshire although probably it is many years since 
anything of the kind was used, yet the stones and the 
earth bear evident marks of the fire. It blew so hard 
to day that it was with difiiculty we kept on our legs 
on the high ground but on descending we were 
sheltered from the wind and had a pleasant walk to 
Penhros Llugwy church an ancient building abuut 
half a mile to the south east of Bodafon hills. On a 
(fol. 120a) rough flat stone in the church yard I traced 

^ Cyttiau Gwyddelod. 

- These are marked on the 25 in. Ordnance Map. 



THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA 



11 



the following inscription, hie jacet Macuceceti.^ Mr. 
Eowland^' upon what authority I know not, supposes 
this to have been an inscription on Mechell or ^lacu- 
tius bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain, who he 
says was buried here. We also observed two or three 



<-->- --^^^A-rrJ M^:^(^ Ci^i^^^t^^ 



HltiA 



C4TW€miL^ 



u,-m«. 
U/^.^ y Pi "- '- 



Troves ^ 



J'^U^ Ca -iiC,^ I .«^ /t' l^</ 





No. 53. Stones iu Penhros Lliigvvy Chuicliyaid. 

flat grave^ stones of a rough gritty substance about 
six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in 
the same manner as those I noticed last year at 
Furness abbey. But what seemed most curious at 



1 Maccudecceti. 

' No such stones are uow to be found here. 



78 TEN days' tour through 

first sight was an inscrijjtion marked on a flat stone^ 
lying on the ground whose characters I recognised to 
be similar to what I had observed on the font at 
Bridekirk in Cumberland mixed with Saxon letters of 
a much later date. On observing Mr, Richards smile 
after I had finished my copy I requested he would 
candidly tell me what the inscription meant and in 
what character (fol. 122) it was written for I could 
make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to 




No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwj', North-East Side. 

relieve me from ray perplexity by explaining that it 
had been executed within these sixty years by a 
shepherds boy at the desire of a gentleman who 
employed various alphabets to compose it. The words 
are Welsh to this effect Ynia hefyd mae Gorwedd 
Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70. Here also 
lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70. 
This I suppose was intended as a stumbling block for 

^ Catherine Jones' burial is entered in the Register, but the stone 
cannot be found. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 79 

antiquarians the idea being probably suggested by 
Mr. Rowjand's Macutius in the neighbourhood. Like 
Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I here had to regret 
the loss of my walking stick for although I dispatched 
our attendant and clerk in quest of it before we had 
proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I 
had copied the inscription, it was vanished. I shrewdly 
suspect that the clerk had taken a fancy to it as there 
was no other person in the church yard excepting our 
own party. However as he supplied me with some- 
thing as a substitute it (fol. 122a) did not longer delay 
our march which brought us in the course of half an 
hour to Llugwy house an ancient mansion now rented 
by a farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly 
invited us within doors and refreshed us with a good 
luncheon of bread and cheese and some excellent ale. 
We then walked a short distance from the house to a 
rising ground overgrown with timber trees and coppice 
wood but still there was sufficient opening to enable 
us to trace a number of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of 
a more perfect form and larger dimensions than any 
we had yet seen. They appear to be surrounded by a 
breast work of massive stones stuck edgeways in the 
ground evidently intended as a fortification which was 
probably strengthened by a mound and sharp stakes. 
The habitations here are very contiguous the entrances 
easily traced as also a communication^ from one to 
the other. This is a strong^ confirmation of the 
historical account of the Aborigines who are said in 
the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126) thing 
in common. 

We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very 
extensive fortress on the top of Penmaenmawr which 
Mr. Richards says resembles very much the one before 
us. Not far distant facing the ocean is a cromlech the 
upper stone six yards long, five yards and a half wide 

1 This is incorrect. 



80 TEN days' tour THROUGH 

and three yards^ thick. One end rests upon a bank' 
of earth and the other is supported by four or five 
small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath about 
two feet high. 

Near this we noticed the remains of Llugwy chapel 
now entirely dilapidated. Walked hence to Llanalgo 
church said to have been built in the year six hundred 
and five. On the north wall near the altar is a 
mutilated monument^ of a knight in armour kneeling 



<;»/.- 



'^l-^t-. 



!-:/,.iL J,.... 









-sa, ^m^h 




No. 55. Llugwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.] 

before an altar said to be that of Sir John Bodville a 
gentleman whose residence was in this parish. On 
digging a few years ago the foundation of the new 
parsonage the workmen discovered a square vault 
formed of a solid composition resembling thick 
(fol. 126rt) tile supposed to be an ancient burying place. 
Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some 
years says he has in his possession English coins of 

1 The thickness is about 3 ft. 6 ins. 

2 At this end it rests on a flat rock. 

^ Demolished about fifteen years ago. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 81 

EclwarcV and Mary found in digging in the churcli 
yard. I#eaving the church we adjourned to a farm 
house close by where the party was again supphed 
with bread cheese and ale, Althouofh I did not much 
admire this delay we were obliged to comply with 
Mr. Richards's request. Continued here nearly an 
hour during which time a poor blind boy attempted to 
amuse us by playing on the harp but having received 
but few instructions was but an indifferent performer, 




~/a< u^U^c^y O^,.^ ^^ 




fii -—- 






•-•fc. C .5tA-»^, «t_««k 







•■^r^k. 



■-^snt^i^gr^. 




'' l-^ Lrfrn^(ei,J, (J.iyjc 



No. 56. Cromlech AUcho. 

■ 

our attendant then took the instrument and played 
some of the Welsh airs with tolerable execution. The 
poor boy in the meantime exhibited such strong marks 
of surprize mixed with mortification as would have 
supplied an admirable subject for the pen of Hogarth. 
After havinof aiven something to him we were not a 
little glad to take our leave it being (fol. 127) past two, 
and there Avas a doubt whether we could procure 
accommodation for the night nearer than Beaumaris at 

1 ] William and Mary. 



82 TEN days' tour through 

least twelve miles distant. Passed a stone about seven 
feet high nine long and three thick this is placed 
edgeways on a flat rock, another about the same shape 
and dimensions lies on the ground near at hand. A 
third formerly placed across has been destroyed within 
the memory of some of the inhabitants. These stones 
are called Cromlech but I should rather imagfine like 
those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had con- 
stituted the chamber of a laro-e Carnedd. Proceedingf 
hence we walked over a natural layer of lime stones 
extendinof for some acres along- the surface of the 
ground this is called Marian Glas a term expressive of 
flat grey stones. We here met with a countryman 
who joined our party and in our progress pointed out 
some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol. 127a) a 
rising ground called Bryn^ ddiol, and from hence we 
saw a hill about two miles to the westward named 
Rhos Fawr where he said were some other remains 
and cromlechs but this lay so much out of our direction 
we could not visit them. At Marian Mawr Mr. 
Richards quitted us. We were indeed much indebted 
to him for his polite attention in accompanying us 
ttius far for I am convinced that without his assistance 
we should have passed many of these curious remains 
the common people in general being ignorant of every- 
thing of the Idnd. This gentleman seems to have paid 
a good deal of attention to antiquities and has promised 
to favour me with a letter on the subject on my 
return home. But I could not help remarking in the 
course of conversation that superstition does not seem 
confined to the ignorant and illiterate for he told me 
very gravely (fol. 129) that there were companies 
of fairies still existing in Wales and particularly in 
Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them from 
their haunts. He also spoke of the knockers supposed 
to be little invisible beinofs favourable to the miners 
who by making a variety of sounds underground lead 

^ At Traeth Bychan 1 Bryn ddiol is the hill on which the 
Romano-British village, close to Parciau House, is situated. 



THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 83 

them to those places where there is the greatest 
quantity«of ore. I could only be silent when I heard 
these opinions advanced but he has directed me to a 
book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of Ponty- 
pool on the subject. At Marian Mawr are six large 
stones of the same kind as the substrata rising above 
seven feet. They have obtained the name of cromlech 
but I rather imagine them to be natural productions. 

Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded 
to Red Wharl. Passed more of the Cytiau Gwyddel- 
hod at a place called Trescifion. Near here is an 
ancient mansion house called Glynn now belonging to 
Mr. Meyricke (fol. 129a) the name of Glynn a title 
common in many parts of Wales I iind implies a 
situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with 
trees. Not far beyond was a house in which Mr. 
Hughes resided before his vast acquisition in the Parys 
mountain. Arrived at Red Wharf a little before dark 
and the house promised but very bad accommodations 
we were obliged to put up with them. Our eating 
was of the least importance but on retiring to my 
sleeping apartment although the woman had provided 
clean linen the tonte ensemble was so dirty I passed 
the night without taking off my cloatbs. 



Sunday, Deck. 12 

We were not sorry to leave this wretched alehouse 
as soon as there was sufficient light to see our direction 
three miles across the sands of Traeth Goch to the 
village of Llanddona whose church srands on an emi- 
nence above the (fol. 130) bay and was first founded by 
Ddona grandson of Brychfael ys Cythrog (who fought 
the Saxons when the monks of Bangor Iscoed were 
slaughtered) anno six hundred and ten. About half a 
mile to the left are the traces of a large entrenchment 
supposed to have been thrown up by the Britons as a 
defence against the northern invaders. This is on a 



84 



TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH 



rising knoll called Dyn Sylwyn^ or Round Table Hill. 
This we had not leisure to see beino^ obligfed to hasten 
to Llamestan'- about a mile in the contrary direction 
in order to have sufficient time to notice an ancient 
monument, mentioned by Mr. Rowlands, before service 




No. .58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn. 



began. Fortunately the church door was open and 
we met with no interruption during the half hour we 
stayed there. The object in question covering a 
cenotaph rose about two feet above the pavement near 
the communion table. A person in a sacerdotal habit 



1 Din Sylwy or Bwrdcl Arthur. 



- Llaniestyn 



THE ISLE OB- ANGLESEA 85 

holding a pastoral crook in his right hand and in his 
left a scroll is here represented, whereon is inscribed 
(fol, 131a) hie jacet sanctus Jestiniis cui &c., round 
the border of the slab towards the head the characters 
in parts are much defaced but I read Gryffydd ap 
Gwyllym in oblationem istam imaginem pro salute 
animarum suarum. The style of workmanship appears 
very similar to that of Pabo post Prid and by the way 
tends to confirm the opinion we there formed that the 
sculpture is many centuries posterior to the time 
of the persons they are designed to represent and 
offered as an oblation to the church for the purpose of 
securing the favour and mediation of the patron saint. 
That the family of this Gryftyd ap Gwyllym resided 
in this neighbourhood appears from a document still 
extant dated at Rhayder Gadog June the twentieth 
in the twenty seventh year of Henry the sixth by which 
seven villaines or vassals were made over and granted 
by Ednyfed Fj^chan ap Ednyfed Dafydd ap Gryffydd 
and Howell ap Dafydd according to the feudal system 
still obtaining to (fol. 133) William Gryff'yd ap Gwylym 
free tenant of Porthamel probably the very same 
person who presented the effigies of St. Jesten to the 
church. This Jesten founder of the church is supposed 
to have been the son of Gerennius or Geraint grandson 
of Constantino duke of Cornwall successor to king 
Arthur. The font is certainly very ancient probably 
coeval with the original building. The present struc- 
ture differs nothing from other Welsh Churches. From 
hence proceeded across a swampy heath for a mile and 
a half to an old mansion called Fotti^ Rhydderch or 
Roderick's summer house having been directed thither 
to see an inscription cut over an arched chimney piece 
in the kitchen. The characters appear to be about 
the time of Henry the eighth or his successor and are 
read Si deus nobiscum quis contra nos. This place 
formerly the residence of a gentleman's family like 

1 Hafodty 



86; 



tEN DAYS^ TOUR THROUGH 



most others we have had occasion to notice in the 
island is now tenanted by a farmer (fol. 133a) who has 
a fine family of nine children. The eldest a lad of 
only eleven years old engaged to conduct us to the 
cromlechs at Cremlyn and Trefor. At the former 
place there is little worthy of notice but at the latter 
I took two sketches of a very perfect cromlech the 
upper stone measuring about three yards across sup- 
ported by two uprights the larger six feet high the 







No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn. 

other not above four and a half which cause the 
cap stone to recline in a slanting direction. Another 
long stone now lying on the ground appears to have 
been formerly used as a supporter. Near at hand also 
are three or four flat stones lying promiscuousl}'". 

Whether these were ever employed in the foi'mation 
of a second cromlech like at Praes Addfed^ I cannot 
pretend to determine. About two fields from hence 
in our way to Penymynnedd^ we traced one of very 



^ Presaddfedd. 



2 Penmynydd. 



•THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA 



87 




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No. 00, Crouilech at Trefor. 




No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor. 



88 TEN days' tour through 

small dimensions, the cap stone not being above a 
yard across and its two supporters a foot and a half 
high. 

(fol. 136) After a toilsome walk we arrived at 
Penymynnedd a place formerly in possession of the 
Tudor family whose descendant Owen became of such 
consequence in the British history by marrying 
Catherine widow of Henry the fifth. In the church 
we perceived a handsome marble monument said to 
belong to that family whereon are the effigies of a 
knight in armour with his lady by his side. There 
beino" no inscription we could not determine its exact 
date but from the workmanship I should imagine it 
was posterior to the time of Owen who if I mistake 
not was buried in the cathedral of St. Davids but of 
this I shall inform myself hereafter. 

The church of Penymynnedd formerly went by the 
name of its founder whose tomb they pointed out 
under a kind of gothic nitch in the north wall without 
any kind of inscription. I did not copy the monument 
on account of there being a good many people in 
church (fol. 136a) and I wished not to put a stumbling 
block in my brother's way but I afterwards made a 
sketch from memory just to notice the place. After 
a homely meal we walked half a mile across the fields 
to the turnpike, and in the course of an hour arrived 
at Bangor ferry completely soaked a heavy rain 
having accompanied us all the way. Crossed the 
water about two with the design of reaching Capel 
Cerio- to sleep but in this we were disappointed 
through the inattention of our guide who having 
stopped behind on some pretence we mistook our 
way and deviated nearly four miles before we got to 
Llandegai. 

It was now quite dark and stormy and we 
endeavoured to procure horses to take us to the con- 
clusion of our stage but without success, on there- 
fore we marched to a small public house near Lord 
Penrhyn's quarries where we met a civil reception 



THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA 89 

Jfc. 

though the accommodations were scarcely (fol. 138) a 
whit better than those of the preceeding night. In the 
course of two hours after our arrival our guide made 
his appearance with a number of excuses I did not 
think it worth while to listen to. At about ten we 
retired to our sleeping room. 




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No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (6'ee page 43. ) 

Monday, Decr. 1 3 

It rained violently all night but clearing up after 
breakfast we pursued our road to Capel Cerig. In 
our way purchased a hone at the quarry near Ogwen 
lake of a man living in a cottage close at hand who is 
employed on the spot to procure this article and two 
or three shiploads have already been sent to different 
parts. Arrived at the inn about one gratified by our 
ten days tour in the island notwithstanding the bad 
weather we experienced having in that period walked 
above an hundred and sixty eight miles. 

Corrigendum. 
On page 68, line 30, for "auxore" read " uxore." 

G 



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